“We are the droppings of Bic.” The banner slammed as an insult in the streets of Cholet (Maine-et-Loire), the mecca of textile in the West. The employees of the company Gaston Jaunet, which depends on the Big-Guy Laroche group, hard experience the culture of “disposable” dear to the Bic Group: 444 little hands of the ready-to-wear (all employees, from production to the shops ) will be thrown into the street, after the decision to close the two workshops and the Vendee Cholet seat of Gaston Jaunet, a family brand which this year celebrated its half-century.
No boss, or at Gaston Jaunet or at Guy Laroche, is up to directly explain the motivations of these deliberate cuts. Everything goes through an external company communication which mandates that “Gaston Janet does work 20 persons.”
Fallback. The rest, the production tool Guy Laroche, has the last two years and especially since last season, lost production licenses Lolita Lempicka, Thierry Mugler, Christian Linares, Jean-Louis Scherrer. These brands have decided not to make their collections in France, where the cost of labor is too expensive. The downturn has been to Spain, Italy, and Britain, where production costs are intermediate between France and North Africa. Employees Gaston Jaunet, called “Janet” hard to accept the situation, but Guy Laroche group suffered significant losses, up to 100 million francs in 1995. Guy Laroche has made in Vendée pieces that have never sold and had to open discount stores to sell the declawed. Managing Janet Gaston was quite paternalistic and social: the employees knew that their plants were kept at arm’s length by Guy Laroche, whose leaders bitterly regret not having regularly cut jobs in recent years. What most shocked biting workshops, it is not the loss of their jobs, decreed a stroke of the pen from Paris, but rather the questioning of the quality of their work. “For the threatened job, here there is a self-control, dignity of people. But the feeling of anger is born when we were attacked on the poor quality of parts. An excuse to let us down, “said Yolaine Lamberton, secretary of the works council of one of the units located in Treize-Vents (Vendée). This is Ralph Toledano, CEO of Guy Laroche group, which on June 21, launched the insinuation in an interview with elected representatives of the EC.
Timekeepers teams. No union, this is not the kind of home, or rather not use in the Vendée land. There is one year, though, the workshops were a rarity: a stop work a few hours for the withdrawal of timekeepers teams responsible for studying all sewing operations in the second, to lower the cost of Production minute. “It was striking for quality against quantity, said Yolaine Lamberton. It may be paid only 5,000 bullets, but was thirty box and even when you do Jean-Louis Scherrer, who trusts only quality workshops. If one is capable of doing Scherrer, one is more likely to make Guy Laroche, who is a grade below. ”
For over a decade, the Gaston Jaunet production is relocated to Hungary and Morocco. The Vendée chains produced only the ready-to-wear Guy Laroche and licensed brands. Despite a recent production tool “suspended” hangers on the chain of output delivery to the customer, sales have dwindled and licenses found cheaper elsewhere.
“Too classic.” The complete disappearance of the brand Gaston Jaunet is also scheduled, despite a turnover of 36.2 million francs in 1995. Under the direction of Guy Laroche, “after a prestigious brand, Gaston has declined since Jaunet the mid-80s, staying too classic for the taste of today’s women. ”
A Cholet, the liquidation of the brand is a major trauma. “In thirty years of home, it was attached to a product, a brand, a reason to live. We can not imagine it to be removed, “says Nicole Walnut, employed at the seat of Gaston Jaunet in Cholet. The most modern of the Vendée two workshops would be taken over by the current technical director, with 49 employees, the threshold to qualify for the reduction of social charges without the requirement to create a works council.
The first version of the social plan was rejected by the elected staff who have committed an independent accountant to peel the accounts of 14 companies, factories, shops. A new appointment to discuss the social plan was set for August 8, the day before the annual closure. If nothing comes out, biting receive their pink slips start October. Précision The company Thierry Mugler reacted to the publication of the article on “stripping Gaston Janet” July 25, illustrated by a photo of parade “ready-to-wear luxury” Thierry Mugler, while workshops Gaston Jaunet have done for three years, a “line-bis”; that is to say, ready-to-wear branded “Mugler by Thierry Mugler.” The company Thierry Mugler said that for four years, it produces directly this line entirely in France, contrary to the indication in the article. “The choice of Thierry Mugler is not related to the cost of French labor but for his will to control its production and services.”